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Thirsty for fame: Pakistan's camel-mounted military bagpipe band
By Nasir JAFFRY
Moj Garh, Pakistan (AFP) Nov 24, 2015


Pakistan female fighter pilot dies in jet crash
Islamabad (AFP) Nov 24, 2015 - One of Pakistan's few female fighter jet pilots was killed in a training crash Tuesday, the air force said in a statement, adding that she was the first of its women pilots to "embrace martyrdom".

Flying Officer Marium Mukhtiar and Squadron Leader Saqib Abbasi were flying a training mission on an FT-7PG aircraft and encountered a "serious in-flight emergency" during the final stages, the Pakistan Air Force (PAF) said in a statement.

"Flying Officer Marium embraced martyrdom and became the first lady pilot from PAF to attain this great honour," it said.

The crash took place in Kundian, Mianwali district, about 175 kilometres (109 miles) southwest of Islamabad.

The male officer, Abbasi, sustained minor injuries, the air force added.

"Both the pilots handled the serious emergency with professionalism and courage and tried to save the ill-fated aircraft till the very last minute," the statement said.

In order to ensure the safety of civilians on the ground, they were forced to eject and the aircraft crashed, the PAF said.

Mukhtiar's body was flown to an air force base in Karachi where a ceremony was held for her late Tuesday.

Pakistan is a highly traditional, patriarchal society where opportunities for women are limited.

But in 2006 seven women broke into one of the country's most exclusive male clubs to graduate as fighter pilots -- perhaps the most prestigious job in the powerful military and for six decades closed to them.

It is unclear how many women have joined the air force as fighter pilots since then. A New York Times report in June put the figure at 21.

A haunting peal reminiscent of the Scottish Highlands reverberates across Pakistan's inhospitable Cholistan desert the nation's first camel-mounted military bagpipe band marches, noses in the air.

With scarlet and gold uniforms in sharp contrast to the dichromatic landscape of beige and green, the camels' tails switch in perfect rhythm.

Their passengers sway above them with looks of nervous concentration as they try to keep balance while blaring out the notes.

"It is very difficult to play the bagpipe while sitting on the camel," admits piper Muhammad Hussain. "But we have now learned the art."

The band, part of the Pakistan Desert Rangers, was formed last year after hundreds of animals went out of service, reduced by the latest military patrol vehicles to doing mere donkey's work -- that is until the idea to dress them in bunting and put bagpipers on their backs was born.

After making their debut before startled spectators at Pakistan's National Day parade in Islamabad in March, they are now deployed in Moj Garh, 100 kilometres (60 miles) east of the city of Bahawalpur in Punjab province, where they drill daily in preparation for a potential international career.

Wing commander Lieutenant Colonel Abdul Razzaq says the band is a matter of pride for his troops, particularly as a counter-balance to arch-rival India.

India, he admits, does have its own camel-mounted military band -- but theirs, he notes pointedly, "is a brass band", with not a bagpipe in sight.

The Pakistani version helps keep them on "equal footing" with "our enemy", he adds as the camels march past to the beat of the drums.

"They (the troops) should not feel demoralised... They should feel pride that we also have such a band. We are not less than anyone else."

Moj Garh, home to a centuries-old fort, serves as a base for troops in the Pakistan army, and its desert location made it a prime choice for officials deciding where to locate their camel band camp.

The army has built a huge farm housing some 170 camels there, where handlers train the temperamental animals to toe the line.

"It is an uphill task to train the camels, who are known for their anger, vengeance and mood-swings," Razzaq says, as nearby handlers drape their charges in costumes before the start of a performance.

A team of veterinary doctors and medics give round-the-clock care and the handlers provide prompt feedings.

"They get angry and start fighting with each other if we do not feed them on time," Sepoy Asghar Ali, one of the handlers, tells AFP, admitting that while camels are "quite intelligent" they are also quick to fury.

He describes the relationship as "friendly", but it hasn't been an easy road.

"We have trained them in such a way that they don't get upset with even drum sounds... they obey our orders now."

- Ready for the world stage -

It's not all marching. Some of the specially trained camels also perform in an acrobatics display, featuring Rangers perched upside down on their backs and pyramids of riders balancing across three camels at a time -- a manouevre described, somewhat understatedly, by Razzaq as one of the "most difficult" to perform.

The uniforms -- from elaborate neck and leg bands for the camels to the bagpipers' tartan -- are hand-stitched in the city of Sialkot northeast of the capital Islamabad.

"I feel pride in wearing this uniform and playing the bagpipe while sitting on the camel," the bagpiper Hussain tells AFP near the Moj Garh fort.

Band major and Sub-Inspector Muhammad Iqbal, whose task it was to train the band, says it was difficult getting them over the hump.

"But I did it," he says proudly, adding that the camels are now "good friends".

"They are more loyal than humans."

Since their March debut the band has performed just once, in the eastern city of Lahore.

But they are now poised for bigger things, says Razzaq, who hopes to secure specialised training for his team at Pakistan's prestigious Army School of Music.

There is at least one other known camel-mounted military bagpipe band: the Sultan of Oman's Royal Cavalry Band. But Pakistan's pipers may soon rival them on the world stage.

"We can perform anywhere in Pakistan even at a very short notice," Razzaq says.

"We are even ready to perform outside Pakistan -- if facilities are provided to us to transport the camels."


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